Wednesday, May 30, 2012

May 23rd - 24th: A Walk Through a Concentration Camp, A Walk Through a Park


Back to blogging!

Wednesday the 23rd was a pretty dark and disturbing day.  First thing in the morning we took a train to Mauthausen, home of an infamous concentration camp.  It was a very interesting and moving experience to approach the camp, because it is set in an absolutely beautiful stretch of countryside.  Taking a tour of the grounds was even more moving.  We started with a movie that served as a sort of primer for the tour; needless to say, it was disturbing.  The tour was too, even more so in fact, and to top it off, rain started coming down the second we stepped out the door.  Our tour guide shared some facts that I had never been exposed to before.  For one thing, there were WAY more concentration and death camps throughout Europe than I had even imagined.  Also, soccer games were apparently regularly held outside many of the camps, including Mauthausen, and many of the games were between the S.S. and the prisoners (the able athletes)!  After the introductory information we viewed different parts of the camp, including memorials, the quarry, the showers, the barracks, the killing chambers and crematoriums… it was just one horrible thing after another.  The quarry was the worst part; Mauthausen is infamous for its “Stairs of Death,” a gigantic flight of steps that prisoners were forced to climb while carrying rocks from the quarry.  The rocks weighed as much, if not more, than the prisoners themselves, and when a prisoner tripped, a domino effect ensued.  You can imagine the horrors that followed.  I was glad when we finally left Mauthausen, but I am also glad I had the experience of seeing it, and I think every able person should pay it a visit.  Our visit was pretty much an all-day ordeal.  When we got back to Vienna, we had a group dinner at café latte, where I satisfied my need for comfort food by getting the chocolate mousse.  It was a delicious work of art, just what I needed to help me feel better after a trip to a place like Mauthausen…

PHOTO UPDATE:
Outside Mauthausen concentration camp
At the bottom of a document in the museum.
Awaiting our tour.
The guards' former swimming pool.  Local kids skate there (see the tracks?).
This is where the soccer field used to be.  Right next to the sick camp...
The Stairs of Death (all 186 of them).
The surroundings were surprisingly beautiful.  Felt strange...
One of very many memorials.
The main gate.  Scary place.
Just inside the camp.
The "Wailing Wall," where newcomers were made to stand for hours or even days, often enduring severe abuse.
Showers.
Inside a barracks.
Smokestack above the crematorium.
Gas chamber.
Crematorium.
Dessert doesn't taste quite as sweet as it should after a tour of Mauthausen.


Thursday the 24th began with a discussion of Holocaust poetry by a wide range of authors (I will try to find some links to the poems soon!).  Most of us had done the readings in advance, but I felt like the poems had much more impact after seeing the camp at Mauthausen.  There is certainly no way we will ever understand entirely, but seeing the camp in person seemed to solidify my knowledge of the Holocaust in a way that I can’t explain.  It was a very enlightening experience.  After the discussion, we headed to a train station to get tickets for Innsbruck and Salzburg, our “vacation” destinations for the coming weekend.  It was somewhat of a fiasco; we had waited till the last minute and it took more than two hours to find a hostels/hotels that were cheap and vacant.  After we got our reservations and train tickets settled, we split into groups to begin work on our mapping projects.  In these projects, we scope out a specific neighborhood in Vienna and essentially just get to know it on a deeper level.  My group had Stadtpark, famous for being the first public park in Vienna.  It was surprisingly difficult to figure out, but we did notice some interesting features.  For one thing, dogs aren’t allowed in, like, 95% of the park, and there are hardly any play areas for children!  Probably the most interesting part was the canal that divides the park; it is virtually empty and covered in graffiti that leads right up to the entrance of the park.  Some of it was pretty interesting, but most of it was just simple tagging, and it was often placed on the most beautiful architecture of the park, which was really unfortunate.  That being said, mapping the neighborhood went well on the first day and our plan is to learn more about the park’s visitors on our next round of mapping.  We concluded with a pizza dinner that was really cool.  I got a pizza that had egg cracked in the middle, and my friend got one with corn on it!  So weird, but so delicious!  It was a great way to end the day.

Sorry I’m still so behind!  I’m catching up slowly but surely!  More blogging is on the way!

UPDATE:  The Holocaust poetry we studied included "First They Came for the Jews" by Pastor Niemöller, "Fugue of Death" by Paul Celan, "Night Over Birkenau" by Tadeusz Borowski, and "Shemá" by Primo Levi.  Photo update below!
The famous Johann Strauss II statue in Stadtpark.
A heron lived on an island in the Stadtpark pond!
So did ducks!  And baby ducks!
It seemed to be the city's Central Park, but admittedly not near as big.
My fancy-schmancy pizza!  There is so much delicious Italian food in Austria!


Tuesday, May 29, 2012

May 19th - 22nd: Poetry, Art, Psychology, Music, and More Music


Hey, guys!  Sorry it’s been so long since I’ve made a blog post!  I can hardly believe how unsuccessful I’ve been with this thing, but in my defense, this has been an INSANELY busy trip.  I am going to attempt to give you a recap of as many of the missed days as I can, focusing only on the most important highlights (as if that’s going to be possible…).

Saturday the 19th began with a discussion of Hofmannsthal and Schnitzler, two of Austria’s most important literary figures.  After racking our brains for more than two hours over various topics—from just four pages of poems—, we took a tour of the Burgtheater, one of Vienna’s most famous and historic performing arts halls.  It was really amazing; we not only discussed the history of the building, but also we got to see beneath the stage and learn about the technology behind all of the special effects.  It could have gone on forever, but it wasn’t long before we needed something to eat, so my friends and I dropped by an Italian place that served some fantastic pasta.  We concluded the day with a visit to the Life Ball, an annual Vienna event in which people apparently put on outrageous costumes and listen to celebrities talk… to help fight aids.  It was a truly strange event, featuring everything from body-painted dancers to Antonio Banderas and Bill Clinton.  But I totally respect their cause!

PHOTO UPDATE!
Inside the Burgtheater.  This room was too massive to capture...
Another view of the same room.  Or maybe a different one; there were two that were almost identical.
More Burgtheater
View of the Rathaus from the Burgtheater.  You can see them setting up for the Life Ball.
The theater itself, as seen from the stage.
Good food at the Italian place!
The Life Ball.
A bunch of people dressed up like flames.  They looked like Lumière from Beauty and the Beast.
Weird teapot guy.  Looks like we were on TV!


Sunday the 20th was a special experience because it marked the first time our group took an excursion outside of Vienna.  We started the day with a discussion about Haydn before venturing to Eisenstadt, a small town about two hours outside of the city.  In particular, we visited Schloss Esterhàzy, the palace of a noble family and the place where Haydn worked for nearly his entire life!  The museum appeared to be fairly new and in development, but it was nevertheless a fascinating experience.  We also had the opportunity to enjoy local wine and gelato, which was almost as fascinating as the museum! Later that day some of us headed back to the Wiener Staatsoper to see an opera on the big TV screen outside the building.  It’s a cool place to hang out, a bit like a drive-in movie theater, but much more classy!

PHOTO UPDATE!
At the gelato place in Eisenstadt.
Schloss Esterházy
The first main room at Esterházy.
They were in the process of uncovering the old ceiling throughout much of the palace.
Another cool room at Esterházy.
Sampling our free Esterházy wines.
Heading out of Eisenstadt.

Monday the 21st started with a discussion of Schoenberg and Webern, two of the most important figures in the development of atonal music.  We listened to several musical excerpts, and I was surprised by how much acceptance was shown by the non-music majors in our class; it seems like most people typically cast atonal music off as rubbish without giving it a second glance, but our students were really respectful about it.  After our discussion, we headed to the apartment of Sigmund Freud, which had been converted into a very interesting museum!  We saw several of Freud’s manuscripts and letters, which were simply awesome to see in person.  Even more interesting were the more personal items, like his collection of ancient artifacts, or rare family video footage; this added a sense of warmth to Freud’s history that I hadn’t seen before.  After the Freud museum, the day got a little bit hectic.  We ate a quick lunch at a Thai restaurant that was surprisingly disappointing before heading off to investigate two important Jewish sculptures/monuments near Stephansplatz.  The monuments were quite interesting but hard to figure out, so I’ll probably just add some pictures to let you interpret them for yourselves.  That being said, it was a nice first-time experience for me since I’m not an art major.  During this time we also got to return to St. Stephen’s Cathedral, which was really cool because we discovered that you could go to the top!  It was a blast.  After that we scoped out a neat underground restaurant called the Zwölf Apostelkeller (12 apostle’s cellar).  It was great but it made us late for a Schoenberg/Webern concert that evening!  It ended up okay though; we made it to the concert and discovered that there was a lot more music than just the atonal stuff, including a lot of jazzy pieces that were really fun.  It was definitely a fun way to end the day.

PHOTO UPDATE!
Freud's apartment building.
Freud!
Freud video footage.
Freud's chess set.  Somehow I don't think I would want to take him on.
Freud's collection of ancient artifacts.
Disappointing Thai restaurant...
Monument Against War and Fascism.  Yep, that's a birthing baby.  Be terrified.
On top of St. Stephen's!
Jewish memorial in Judenplatz.  The walls were sculpted books, with pages facing outward.  The doors also had no hinges or doorknobs, and were just another part of the sculpture.  We discussed the significance of this, but never came to a definite conclusion.  I thought of it like this:  the books are forever inaccessible, just like the lives that could have been lived by the countless jews that were murdered in the Holocaust.  Their stories were cut short.
Zwölf Apostelkeller!
Inside Zwölf Apostelkeller
Brahms Saal in the Musikverein.  Notice Dr. Mansure bombing the picture with his lip balm.

Tuesday the 22nd began with another class discussion, this time about Beethoven.  In particular, we discussed his famous Heiligenstadt Testament, a letter to his brothers in which he detailed his struggles with deafness for the first time.  We also listened to samples of Beethoven’s music and talked about Gustav’s Klimt Beethoven Frieze, a visual work of art inspired by Beethoven’s last symphony.  After these discussions we had lunch at the Naschmarkt and travelled to the Viennese Secession building, a modern art museum with one permanent display… the Beethoven Frieze.  The work is so important because it came from the Viennese Secession, a movement characterized by a departure from a long line of Viennese traditions.  It was interesting to see how Klimt interpreted Beethoven’s ninth.  Very complex!  After the Secession building we travelled to Heiligenstadt to see the apartment where Beethoven wrote his famous testament, and then we went to a concert by the virtuoso pianist Murray Perahia!  It was spectacular; he played Chopin, Schumann, Schubert, Beethoven, Bach, and Brahms, and he even gave three encores!  It was a huge, incredible performance in one of the most beautiful concert halls I’ve ever seen, the Wiener Konzerthaus.  We tried to get the pianist’s autograph, but apparently they don’t do that in Vienna, so we made up for it by going out for coffee and dessert.  Great way to end the day!

PHOTO UPDATE!
Sushi at Naschmarkt.
Dr. Toub telling us about the Secession building.
Dr. Mansure reading us the Heiligenstadt Testament in the courtyard of Beethoven's apartment building.
Beethoven's hair.
Beethoven's death mask.
The ridiculously awesome hall where Murray Perahia played a ridiculously awesome concert.
Three encores!  Woohoo!

Sorry to leave so abruptly, but I have to sleep again!  More is on the way!